Sabbath Rest
It is Friday noon here in Qom; time for a sabbath rest. Most shops have closed down until sunset. People are heading to mosques for worship. A week ago David and Wally and I were worshiping with Armenian Christians in Tehran. Today we
are at home, reading, reflecting, being grateful. A week from today we will hope to go to Tehran again, and find the English speaking church which meets there once a month.
This past week has been full of relationships, learning and connecting. Our Farsi teacher comes to our apartment every day and with infinite good humor and patience teaches us words, writing, sounds. I could now visit with our upstairs neighbor-- who wants to be friends-- and name fruits and vegetables for her, or call out primary colors. Our Islamic studies professor meets us at the Imam Khomeini Institute once a week. He is serene, focused, welcoming as we dialogue together about the Quran, the Bible, what it is to hear the Word of God. ("The Word," he said in last week's lesson, "is the same Word that John calls 'the Logos' in the beginning of his gospel.")
Wally Shellenberger. helpful and patient friend, has gone home to Indiana yesterday-- after 10 days with us. Thank you, Wally! You helped us in 100 ways and we will miss having you here for lunch!
One day this past week, a car and driver arrived at our door. We had been waiting to go on a rural drive with Mr. Haghani,
our dear cleric friend and Director of International Affairs (and international students) at the Imam Khomeini Institute. Instead we heard, "The Ayatollah is waiting to see you now." I hastily donned by chador, David grabbed his notebook and off we went, to the office of Ayatollah Misbah, Director of the Institute. We were ushered into his office with the usual Iranian courtesy and thoughtfulness. The Ayatollah had eyes that were gentle, merry and appraising. He let a warm silence gather and then began his welcome. " I am so glad you're here. You will find it more difficult to live in the east than in the west,
but what you can learn among us will make up for it. " He searched our faces: tea was poured and fruit offered; I ventured one hand out to grasp my tea and prayed that my chador would stay on (it did). "I will pray for you," he said. "Welcome to Iran."
We (David, Wally and I ) drove with Mr.Haghani and a driver south and a bit west of Qom, towards the town of Kahak. Here in Iran shepherds still tend their flocks. One young man stood just at the edge of his flock, chatting with an old man holding a donkey by a rope. The sheep were carpetted in thick black wool. A mile more down the road a teenage boy sat on a straight backed chair under a tree - his flock both white and black and very wooly. Resevoirs and irrigation canals birthed groves of olives, pomegranates and sour cherries. The desert floor slowly rose up toward the Zagrob Mountains-- snow capped beauties before us. We lunched together in a restaurant composed of carpeted platforms. Climbing up, settling against pillows and drinking tea, we awaited lunch -- beautiful trout from the Caspian sea, rice with saffron, salads full of fresh produce, flatbread just baked and still warm.
Later in the week we travelled to the university town of Kashan, an hour an a half south of Qom. It is famous for its carpets,
elaborate and breathtaking old homes, and antiquity-- being continually inhabited for at least 4000 years. We met several professors (whom Wally knew) and were ushered into an English class. "Do you recognize this voice?" grinned the professor as he turned on a cassette player. It was a speech by President Bush. Oh yes, I do believe I recognize who that is. David and I introduced ourselves and fielded questions from students. "What do you think of the war in Iraq?" "Do you support the poilcies of your president?" "Do you belive in a Messiah who will come back at the end of history?" "Do you see any terrorists here? (snickers)" The hour was over too quickly and we promised each other another visit, and perhaps a formal lecture on Christian spirituality soon.
On to dinner at a professor's home. He and his wife and two children welcomed us with open hearts. A big, fat English copy of Harry Potter (#6) lay on the floor. They had recently had a sabbatical half year in England. "I read through the Gospel of Luke with a Christian neighbor," my new friend said. "It was so lovely. Excuse me now for just a moment, I have to pray."
More feasting on food, conversation, hopes, community together.
Yesterday (Thursday), the MCC initiated Ecumenical Peace Group came to Qom, lead by Ron Flaming. We were fetched by a driver who took us to the grand Quranic Library and then helped Davd and I practice our fruits and vegis in Farsi while we awaited the bus of North Americans. (Our conversational skills are a bit limited but we're willing to offer what we can--- pomegranate, orange, banana, potatoes...) The bus drove up-- obvious in its grand size. We waved to Ed Martin and called out as he and others crossed the road to us. What fun to see the group (15 or so) of peace activist Christians-- Mennonite,
Quaker, United Methodist, Episcopalian, Pax Christi, Sojourners, the National Council of Churches. "Linda, is that YOU?" said a familiar voice. It was friend and Friend Jessica from the Quaker UN Office in NYC-- we had last seen each other in Manhattan. She continued, "I knew that familiar voice as soon as I heard it. I can't believe you're here." (This group is here in Iran for a week, religious leaders working hard to de-escalate the rising tensions between Iran and the US. A PBS camera crew was along-- be watching for Bill Moyers' old show "NOW" which will carry clips of this delegation in the near future).
We later went as a group to the Hazrat-i-Ma'sumeh Shrine here, with its golden dome and twin minarets. It houses four Safavid shahs, two Qajar rulers and many officials of the Qajar court. Inside the main gate is a large courtyard full of people-- talking, praying, walking with little children and very old people. A group of young men walked rapidly by with a funeral bier at shoulder height, chanting in unison as they headed to the front gate. Intricate mosaics, archways, piles of rolled prayer rugs, large fountains, beautiful humanity with faces that were Chinese, Afghani, Persian, Arab...
We went back to the bus. A group of women in chadors with angry voices were in front. "Americans! What are THEY doing here?" Immediately the PBS camera crew got out, as well as several women. "We are peace church people. We oppose war in any context. Our hearts are broken over Iraq. We have deep regret for our country's policies and practices that have brought you such pain." Oh. The voices went down a decibel. Oh. "We are pilgrims from Iraq, from Babylon. If you are people of peace, we would like you to come and stay with us as our guests. You are welcome in Babylon." A middle aged woman and I held each others hands, heads bowed, then looking into each other's faces. I took off my earrings (that my dear friend Missy had given me years ago from New York) and put them into her hand. "We have," she said, "no electricty, no water, no gas for all these years of war. Why? Why? Why?"
are at home, reading, reflecting, being grateful. A week from today we will hope to go to Tehran again, and find the English speaking church which meets there once a month.
This past week has been full of relationships, learning and connecting. Our Farsi teacher comes to our apartment every day and with infinite good humor and patience teaches us words, writing, sounds. I could now visit with our upstairs neighbor-- who wants to be friends-- and name fruits and vegetables for her, or call out primary colors. Our Islamic studies professor meets us at the Imam Khomeini Institute once a week. He is serene, focused, welcoming as we dialogue together about the Quran, the Bible, what it is to hear the Word of God. ("The Word," he said in last week's lesson, "is the same Word that John calls 'the Logos' in the beginning of his gospel.")
Wally Shellenberger. helpful and patient friend, has gone home to Indiana yesterday-- after 10 days with us. Thank you, Wally! You helped us in 100 ways and we will miss having you here for lunch!
One day this past week, a car and driver arrived at our door. We had been waiting to go on a rural drive with Mr. Haghani,
our dear cleric friend and Director of International Affairs (and international students) at the Imam Khomeini Institute. Instead we heard, "The Ayatollah is waiting to see you now." I hastily donned by chador, David grabbed his notebook and off we went, to the office of Ayatollah Misbah, Director of the Institute. We were ushered into his office with the usual Iranian courtesy and thoughtfulness. The Ayatollah had eyes that were gentle, merry and appraising. He let a warm silence gather and then began his welcome. " I am so glad you're here. You will find it more difficult to live in the east than in the west,
but what you can learn among us will make up for it. " He searched our faces: tea was poured and fruit offered; I ventured one hand out to grasp my tea and prayed that my chador would stay on (it did). "I will pray for you," he said. "Welcome to Iran."
We (David, Wally and I ) drove with Mr.Haghani and a driver south and a bit west of Qom, towards the town of Kahak. Here in Iran shepherds still tend their flocks. One young man stood just at the edge of his flock, chatting with an old man holding a donkey by a rope. The sheep were carpetted in thick black wool. A mile more down the road a teenage boy sat on a straight backed chair under a tree - his flock both white and black and very wooly. Resevoirs and irrigation canals birthed groves of olives, pomegranates and sour cherries. The desert floor slowly rose up toward the Zagrob Mountains-- snow capped beauties before us. We lunched together in a restaurant composed of carpeted platforms. Climbing up, settling against pillows and drinking tea, we awaited lunch -- beautiful trout from the Caspian sea, rice with saffron, salads full of fresh produce, flatbread just baked and still warm.
Later in the week we travelled to the university town of Kashan, an hour an a half south of Qom. It is famous for its carpets,
elaborate and breathtaking old homes, and antiquity-- being continually inhabited for at least 4000 years. We met several professors (whom Wally knew) and were ushered into an English class. "Do you recognize this voice?" grinned the professor as he turned on a cassette player. It was a speech by President Bush. Oh yes, I do believe I recognize who that is. David and I introduced ourselves and fielded questions from students. "What do you think of the war in Iraq?" "Do you support the poilcies of your president?" "Do you belive in a Messiah who will come back at the end of history?" "Do you see any terrorists here? (snickers)" The hour was over too quickly and we promised each other another visit, and perhaps a formal lecture on Christian spirituality soon.
On to dinner at a professor's home. He and his wife and two children welcomed us with open hearts. A big, fat English copy of Harry Potter (#6) lay on the floor. They had recently had a sabbatical half year in England. "I read through the Gospel of Luke with a Christian neighbor," my new friend said. "It was so lovely. Excuse me now for just a moment, I have to pray."
More feasting on food, conversation, hopes, community together.
Yesterday (Thursday), the MCC initiated Ecumenical Peace Group came to Qom, lead by Ron Flaming. We were fetched by a driver who took us to the grand Quranic Library and then helped Davd and I practice our fruits and vegis in Farsi while we awaited the bus of North Americans. (Our conversational skills are a bit limited but we're willing to offer what we can--- pomegranate, orange, banana, potatoes...) The bus drove up-- obvious in its grand size. We waved to Ed Martin and called out as he and others crossed the road to us. What fun to see the group (15 or so) of peace activist Christians-- Mennonite,
Quaker, United Methodist, Episcopalian, Pax Christi, Sojourners, the National Council of Churches. "Linda, is that YOU?" said a familiar voice. It was friend and Friend Jessica from the Quaker UN Office in NYC-- we had last seen each other in Manhattan. She continued, "I knew that familiar voice as soon as I heard it. I can't believe you're here." (This group is here in Iran for a week, religious leaders working hard to de-escalate the rising tensions between Iran and the US. A PBS camera crew was along-- be watching for Bill Moyers' old show "NOW" which will carry clips of this delegation in the near future).
We later went as a group to the Hazrat-i-Ma'sumeh Shrine here, with its golden dome and twin minarets. It houses four Safavid shahs, two Qajar rulers and many officials of the Qajar court. Inside the main gate is a large courtyard full of people-- talking, praying, walking with little children and very old people. A group of young men walked rapidly by with a funeral bier at shoulder height, chanting in unison as they headed to the front gate. Intricate mosaics, archways, piles of rolled prayer rugs, large fountains, beautiful humanity with faces that were Chinese, Afghani, Persian, Arab...
We went back to the bus. A group of women in chadors with angry voices were in front. "Americans! What are THEY doing here?" Immediately the PBS camera crew got out, as well as several women. "We are peace church people. We oppose war in any context. Our hearts are broken over Iraq. We have deep regret for our country's policies and practices that have brought you such pain." Oh. The voices went down a decibel. Oh. "We are pilgrims from Iraq, from Babylon. If you are people of peace, we would like you to come and stay with us as our guests. You are welcome in Babylon." A middle aged woman and I held each others hands, heads bowed, then looking into each other's faces. I took off my earrings (that my dear friend Missy had given me years ago from New York) and put them into her hand. "We have," she said, "no electricty, no water, no gas for all these years of war. Why? Why? Why?"
posted by Quakers in Qom at 3:28 AM
2 Comments:
More info. about the delegation can be found at http://mcc.org/iran/delegation/
Thank you so much for representing us all, showing the good people who have suffered most from this war that there are many many from the west who are opposing this violence and want to find peace and friendship. I am thinking of you both often and praying for your safety, your message and for all those you meet.
Love, Missy
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